Which Paris church for best off the cuff visit on Sunday?

[Principal]

Hi!

If one is popping over to Paris, which church has the best organ experience for a Sunday service for an organist?

Best wishes

FourFoot

[pcnd5584]

Hi!

If one is popping over to Paris, which church has the best organ experience for a Sunday service for an organist?

Best wishes

FourFoot

I would suggest either S. Sulpice or Nôtre-Dame, in the first instance. There are three masses with organ on a Sunday morning at the latter. At the former, M. Daniel Roth gives a short recital at (as far as I can recall) 11h30, prior to a 12 noon service. However, I would advise that you check the times and check websites, prior to your visit.

[David Pinnegar]

Hi!

That looks to be useful information indeed and clearly well worth following up in the city.

An interesting suggestion might also be an unlikely candidate - near La Defense is the district of Courbevoie where at the Église Saint-Pierre-Saint-Paul a brand new instrument was inaugurated in September 2011. It's three manuals built by Bertrand Cattiaux of 38 ranks.

It's an uncompromising instrument which unashamedly takes inspiration from the first half of the 17th century intended for ancient, preromantic and contemporary repertoire to the exclusion of post-romantic and symphonic of the 19th century. Very much the antithesis of St Sulpice! Clearly in the business quarter of Paris there is money around for organ building!

Best wishes

David P

[Contrabombarde]

Having been recently to Paris for a week long holiday I was profoundly disappointed to discover that virtually the only time any of the fine organs there are played is for the main Sunday morning service, since I arrived Sunday afternoon and returned Saturday evening! Don't go expecting to hear any organ music any other time of the week. The two biggest "hits" seem to be Notre Dame and Saint Sulpice, and if you arrange in advance you can observe the whole service from the organ loft. I get the impression this may be easier (and more organ music to listen to) at S Sulpice.

[pcnd5584]

Having been recently to Paris for a week long holiday I was profoundly disappointed to discover that virtually the only time any of the fine organs there are played is for the main Sunday morning service, since I arrived Sunday afternoon and returned Saturday evening! Don't go expecting to hear any organ music any other time of the week. The two biggest "hits" seem to be Notre Dame and Saint Sulpice, and if you arrange in advance you can observe the whole service from the organ loft. I get the impression this may be easier (and more organ music to listen to) at S Sulpice.

This is largely true.

However, there is a well-attended mass at Nôtre-Dame on a Saturday evening, at which the Grand Orgue is used. At S. Sulpice, it is often possible to observe the mass from the organ loft - by prior arrangement. At Nôtre-Dame, it is not always possible to gain admission to the tribune on a Sunday morning.

If you are there during the week, the orgue de choeur at Nôtre-Dame is (or was) used for a Wednesday evening mass, held east of the central crossing.

I did go up in the loft at S. Germain-des-Prés once, but the organist was clearly the worse for drink, so I would not recommend this *. (However, this church is almost directly opposite a famous café - Les Deux Magots, which can count amongst its illustrious former patrons Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre and Ernest Hemingway - and is well worth a visit.)

You could try S. Eusache - I found M. Gillou to be most friendly. He even asked if I wished to play the Grand Orgue (this was, to be fair, a week-day evening, just prior to the church closing). Well, what could I say? It was a most enjoyable time on a very exciting instrument.


With best wishes for a sucessful trip.



* I got the distinct impression that this was a regular occurrence with this person.